{"id":1039,"date":"2024-10-27T14:37:40","date_gmt":"2024-10-27T14:37:40","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/touristicafrik.com\/?p=1039"},"modified":"2024-10-27T14:38:58","modified_gmt":"2024-10-27T14:38:58","slug":"tanger-sur-les-traces-de-matisse-et-dibn-batouta","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.financialafrik.com\/touristicafrik\/2024\/10\/27\/tanger-sur-les-traces-de-matisse-et-dibn-batouta\/","title":{"rendered":"Tanger, sur les traces de Matisse et d’Ibn Batouta"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Je suis \u00e0 Tanger, sur les traces de Matisse et d’Ibn Batouta, ce voyageur insatiable qui nous a offert les descriptions les plus vivantes de Tombouctou. Aujourd’hui, au caf\u00e9 Hafa, perch\u00e9 sur les falaises du D\u00e9troit, j\u2019observe au loin l\u2019Espagne, cette terre tentatrice pour tant d’\u00e2mes clandestines. Entre les volutes paresseuses d’un narguil\u00e9, j’ai tent\u00e9 de revivre l\u2019\u0153uvre intense de Mohamed Choukri, Le pain nu<\/em>, un chef-d’\u0153uvre traduit jusqu’au Japon.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00c0 l’h\u00f4tel Rembrandt, j’ai gravi les marches jusqu’\u00e0 la chambre qu’occupait Habib Bourguiba, le p\u00e8re de l’ind\u00e9pendance tunisienne, qui \u00e9chappa ici m\u00eame, par une \u00e9chelle de corde, \u00e0 l’arm\u00e9e fran\u00e7aise. Tanger est un mus\u00e9e \u00e0 ciel ouvert. Des grottes d’Hercule aux tombeaux romains, en passant par les ruines de la M\u00e9dina et les marabouts, chaque coin respire l’histoire.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Je suis pass\u00e9 sous les fen\u00eatres du Consulat fran\u00e7ais, avec un frisson en pensant \u00e0 la Maison de France<\/em>, l\u00e0 o\u00f9, bien plus jeune, j’ai re\u00e7u le prix de po\u00e9sie des jeunes cr\u00e9ateurs de la ville, en l\u2019honneur du grand po\u00e8te libanais Nizar Al Qabbani. Ironie du sort, cette b\u00e2tisse pleine de souvenirs est aujourd’hui en ruines, tout comme ces gloires passag\u00e8res qui marquent une \u00e9poque avant de s’effacer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le caf\u00e9 des Cygnes, autrefois anim\u00e9 par des po\u00e8tes et \u00e9lev\u00e9 \u00e0 la gloire de la fille unique d\u2019un bienfaiteur, a \u00e9galement sa part de nostalgie. J\u2019ai eu le privil\u00e8ge de l\u2019apercevoir, cette fille, quelques jours avant son mariage. Un caf\u00e9 o\u00f9 r\u00e9gnait autrefois une splendeur litt\u00e9raire, d\u00e9cor\u00e9 de meubles Louis XVI, qui comblait de pr\u00e9sents les artistes de passage, y compris le po\u00e8te le plus na\u00eff et instable.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Un d\u00e9tour par Cap Spartel m\u2019a conduit \u00e0 l\u2019h\u00f4tel Le Mirage, vibrant de l\u00e9gendes. On raconte que Mobutu Sese Seko y s\u00e9journa avec toute sa cour. \u00c0 c\u00f4t\u00e9, l\u2019h\u00f4tel Robinson \u00e9voque la modestie de l’une des princesses les plus humbles, s\u0153ur du roi d\u00e9funt, qui, fatigu\u00e9e du monde, le quitta avec le sourire aux l\u00e8vres.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tanger, c\u2019est une ville qui respire les souvenirs et l\u2019histoire \u00e0 chaque coin de rue. Et pourtant, alors que je d\u00e9ambulais entre ses ruelles, c’est le portrait du duc de Guermantes, tir\u00e9 de \u00c0 la recherche du temps perdu<\/em> de Marcel Proust, qui me revint en m\u00e9moire. Comme si, \u00e0 Tanger, le temps \u00e9tait suspendu, juch\u00e9 entre plusieurs \u00e9poques, entre la r\u00e9alit\u00e9 et le r\u00eave.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mais au milieu de tout ce tumulte, entre les rires et les tambours, les robes chatoyantes et les costumes \u00e9l\u00e9gants, j’ai capt\u00e9 un seul sourire. Ce sourire a tout effac\u00e9, l’espace d’un instant, mes peines et mes doutes. C\u2019\u00e9tait comme une br\u00e8ve \u00e9chapp\u00e9e vers le n\u00e9ant, le temps d\u2019un \u00e9clair, avant de retomber dans le flot de la vie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tanger, ville de mille histoires, ville de tous les possibles.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Je suis \u00e0 Tanger, sur les traces de Matisse et d’Ibn Batouta, ce voyageur insatiable qui nous a offert les descriptions les plus vivantes de Tombouctou. Aujourd’hui, au caf\u00e9 Hafa, perch\u00e9 sur les falaises du D\u00e9troit, j\u2019observe au loin l\u2019Espagne, cette terre tentatrice pour tant d’\u00e2mes clandestines. Entre les volutes paresseuses d’un narguil\u00e9, j’ai tent\u00e9 […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":7,"featured_media":1040,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2},"jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[99,98],"tags":[173,174,172],"class_list":{"0":"post-1039","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-carnets-de-route","8":"category-une","9":"tag-matisse","10":"tag-mohamed-choukri","11":"tag-tanger"},"yoast_head":"\nTouristic Afrik | Tanger, sur les traces de Matisse et d'Ibn Batouta<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Les derni\u00e8res news sur l\u2019h\u00f4tellerie, les voyagistes et les compagnies a\u00e9riennes. 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